by Annie Bennett
Valencia:
Sensuous and
unpretentious, Valencia is all about Mediterranean exuberance. Go for the
dazzling light, spectacular modern architecture, miles of golden sand and
buzzing nightlife...
All sounds rather uplifting. Where should I start?
Head down to the glittering City of
Arts and Sciences. The extraordinary sculptural structures, designed by
Santiago Calatrava, house a science museum, planetarium, opera house and marine
park (Avenida Autopista del Saler 5, 902 100031; Cac.es). The
complex stretches along a swathe of parkland that snakes around the city, where
Valencians love riding their bikes and running.
Are
there more traditional sights, too?
The cathedral is a riotous
hotchpotch of Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque extravagance. The museum contains
a chalice recognised by the Vatican as possibly being the original Holy Grail
(but you can make your own mind up about that...) It's worth climbing the
Micalet belltower for great city views (Plaza de la Reina). Afterwards, wander
through the streets of the old town to the central market, a glorious art nouveau
building with tiled domes, where the fabulous local produce is sold at more
than 1,000 stalls (Mercadocentralvalencia.es). Be sure to stop at the bar
outside for a freshly-squeezed orange juice, then have a look at La Lonja, the
15th-century silk exchange opposite.
What
about art? Any good museums?
The Museo de Bellas Artes, in a
17th-century building, is one of the most important art museums in Spain, with
paintings by Velazquez, El Greco and Goya, and Valencian artists including
Sorolla (San Pio V; Museobellasartesvalencia.gva.es).
As well as the permanent display of work by the sculptor Julio González, there
are always a few interesting temporary exhibitions on at the IVAM contemporary
art museum (Guillem de Castro 118; Ivam.es). La Sucursal, inside the museum, has a
Michelin star and is one of the best restaurants in the city.
I’ve
worked up a bit of an appetite now actually...
A lot of Valencians eat paella or
some sort of rice dish every day, and there are infinite permutations, so they
never get bored. As such, eating paella is an essential experience when in
Valencia – and should always be eaten at lunchtime rather than in the evening.
The family-run Casa Ripoll is popular with locals and is right on the beach
(Paseo Maritimo, Modulo 7). There are several more good places right on the
front, including the famous La Pepica, which was a favourite of
Ernest Hemingway (Paseo de Neptuno 2-8).
Nearby in the Cabanyal, the old
fishermen’s quarter, another place worth seeking out is Bodega Casa Montaña,
which is one of the best tapas bars in Spain. Classic dishes are prepared using
artisan ingredients and there's a great choice of wines by the glass (José
Benlliure 69).
Are
the shops worth bothering with?
Are you kidding? Start with Calle
Colon for Zara, Mango, Adolfo Dominguez and lots more Spanish designers. Don’t
miss Cristina Castañer (at 43) for edgy espadrilles and sandals. Cut down Don
Juan de Austria for a cheap thrill at the string of bargain shoe shops. Sorni,
Cirilo Amoros and Jorge Juan streets are packed with more upmarket boutiques.
The restored art nouveau Colon Market on Calle Jorge Juan is now full of cafés
- ideal for a coffee break. For international designer names, meanwhile, look
no further than Calle Poeta Querol.
I
can’t believe I’m hungry again after that huge lunch, but…
Quique Dacosta, who is one of
Spain’s top chefs, has two fabulous, buzzy gastrobars in Valencia – Mercatbar
(Joaquín Costa 27) and the newer and somewhat swisher Vuelve Carolina (Calle
Correos 8). Both serve amazingly creative dishes to share at reasonable
prices.
I
fancy hitting the bars now…
Start with a cocktail on the terrace
at Café Negrito (Plaza del Negrito 1), then take your pick of the bars lining
Calle Caballeros. Carmen Sui Generis (Caballeros 38), with a section of the
11th-century city wall in its interior, is always a good bet.
I’m
going to need a suitably stylish place to stay in Valencia…
Of course. The five-star Palau de la
Mar (Hospes.com) should fit the bill nicely. The
grand 19th-century building has soothingly minimalist rooms, a superb spa and
one of the best restaurants in town. Or try the glamorous Vincci Palace, with a
great location right in the centre and a bit of a boudoir vibe going on in the
rooms (Vinccihoteles.com).
Is
it easy to get around?
The old town and shopping areas are
walkable, but you might want to use the bus (Emtvalencia.es) or the metro and tram system (Metrovalencia.es) to get to some of the sights, down
to the beach and to and from the airport. The Valencia Card is a really good
deal as it gives unlimited use of public transport plus discounts at museums,
sights, shops and restaurants (Valenciatouristcard.com). Buy
one at the airport and use it straightaway for the metro to the city centre.
When’s
a good time to go?
Although, like much of the rest of
Spain, the city can get stiflingly hot in summer, at least you can escape to
the beach and cool off in the sea. Pleasantly warm temperatures and bright
sunshine are the norm in spring and autumn, and even in winter you can often
sit outside during the day.
What
about flights?
Easyjet flies from London Gatwick (Easyjet.com) and
Ryanair flies from London Stansted, Bristol, East Midlands and Manchester (Ryanair.com).
The flight takes two and a half hours. The train from Madrid takes 90 minutes.
If you live on the fifth floor of a building without a lift you will definitely get a lot of forced exercise, but is it worth the trouble? If you want to see a grown man cry just watch when someone gets down to the street and realizes that he forgot his phone. If you have to keep your bike inside your apartment your enthusiasm for stairs diminishes very quickly. Of course, all modern buildings have a lift but some of the most beautiful buildings in Valencia don't have this fairly modern convenience. Is a lift a "must" for you or do you have a bit of flexibility when it comes to humping up stairs? Take this simple test to determine what sort of building best suits your needs. 
